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I might go for a split box on my queen mattress set the next time around. It will be easier to move, and I don't think that those folding wire cot frames like Incredibed and the others are suitable for me, because I have a large super-heavy steel reinforced brass bed headboard and full foot board, and I like the big angle iron frame that came with it. I don't see any real discussions of frames on here. I need to add a center support system to this frame, and it should probably be one that can support split box foundation where it needs to be supported. Do I want east-west, or north-south, supports? Or a combination like this V-Rail http://www.planetbed.com/v-rail-heavy-duty-bed-center-support-system.html ? I actually ordered the V-Rail and it arrived today. I picked it because this frame is 11" - 12" above the floor, and V-Rail goes that high, plus I'd have all that storage space down each side because V-Rail's legs are all in the center. I bought it before I considered a "modern" heavyweight mattress with a split box. I'm wondering if I need a wider north-south brace with a split box. Any ideas? This frame setup goes 'way back to the early brass and steel beds of the '20s and '30s. Cross brace with brackets is bolted to head and to foot. Stand the head up, stand the foot up, drop the siderails in. Maybe add wooden slats if you have 2" angle. I'm not sure if steel slats work, but I don't see why they wouldn't. Pics: and here are the side rails, in front of the sofa:
This furniture is all secondhand stuff from Craigslist. by the way. About $1250 total. Very wallet-friendly. I even got a too-soft-for-me but very nice queen mattress and box spring with the bed. I drive a truck so I can help myself move. ;-) This message was modified Aug 28, 2010 by TC2334
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Thanks, Budgy. Someone on another board said "Looks like a 19th century who**house." ROTFL, but I still won't change my style, hehe. Then my mom wanted one, so I rounded up a brass and marble headboard and frame for the low, low price of just $80, plus my fuel cost to go pick it up. That was a steal! She was okay with just headboard since it takes up less floor space. Hers, which is white marble, Mine are onyx. We all have antique furniture from Victorian era into the pre-war '40s, so modern stuff would be out of place.
This is mine, the seller's photo of it: This message was modified Sep 19, 2010 by TC2334
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(read the whole thread if you just tuned in to this post) Today, I finally drilled the Knickerbocker frame to put the Leggett & Platt footboard kit on it. (Had to borrow someone's drill press.) For you sticklers, the L&P bracket kit is painted black, and the Knickerbocker is dark brown. I ignored the "South" hole in the bed frame. I used the "North" hole that is already drilled in the bed frame, but I had to open it up a little at the bottom because it was drilled too high to match up with the "South" hole in the L&P rail. Then I drilled a new hole in the bed frame to mate with the "North" hole in the L&P bracket. That "railroad steel" Knickerbocker uses is good stuff. You'll want to use a drill press and some cutting oil and some very sharp bits, because it's hard to drill. (North is toward the headboard end, and South is toward the footboard end.) With the 13" rail and the footbracket and the Knickerbocker #750 frame assembled, the total frame rail length from inside edge of the headboard bracket to the inside edge of the footboard bracket is almost 82" That is 82" where the mattress sits, so you have 1" extra at either end if you have an 80" mattress. Perfect. Most queen bed rails that I checked the specs on are 82" and some are 81.5" so I ended up with a standard length of rail. So, I think my idea worked. I now have a heady duty convertible F/Q bed frame that accepts headboard and footbaord plus has the correct rail length for both full and queen. The only possible problem might be height, i.e. will the slots in the footboard bracket line up with the holes in the footboard. If that's a problem, it's easily solved with mod brackets. It was starting to rain, so I didn't bother to check what happens with the shorter 7" T/F extension rail. If the difference between the two rails is 13-7=6", then I'll have about 76" long rails for the full size bed. But if those are too short, I can always use the 13" rails and just drill 2 more holes in the rails and slide the rails further up in the frame, until I have 76" or 77" long rails for a full size mattress. No big deal. This message was modified Sep 19, 2010 by TC2334
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