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what would you recommend to deal with these pests and how can any one know if they have bed bugs coming and feeding on their blood? Thanks. |
| I'm a believer in (food grade) diatomaceous earth -- though I use it in the garden, not the bedrooms -- but be aware that you do *not* want to breathe it or get it in your eyes. Even in garden use I use it sparingly -- but it does vex flea beetles or cabbage worms most satisfactorily. If I had to cope with bedbugs I might use it -- but would give careful thought to how to do it to deal with the beasties while not endangering any humans or animals that might be in the area. It is important to get some that *says* food grade, also, for any bug slaying purpose. Diatomaceous Earth for filters is a different grade/product and won't work properly for bugicide. Can still be a health hazard for humans, though, I believe. |
| Ugh! There was a discussion about bed bugs in moving vans on another forum. Someone mentioned that the people delivering new beding were removing the old bedding at the same time on the same truck, and someone got bedbugs along with a new bedding set. Had to call an exterminator. Just more reason to haul it yourself, I guess. :-/ |
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Food grade diatomaceous earth has saved my house from flea invasions in the past. It is truly excellent stuff...I imagine it would work equally well for bed bugs. I think it's worth mentioning that people with respiratory disorders should wear a mask while dusting surfaces down with D.E.; even the food grade can irritate sensitive lungs, but it's fine after the dust has settled. You need to use a coarse bristle brush to work it into upholstery and carpeting. I've dusted once a week for fleas, and only the cats' sleeping areas, plus the cats themselves once every few days (it's safe for ingestion, and, in fact, makes a great natural dewormer). It only took about a month to get rid of all the bloodsuckers; fleas tread in it and the sharp edges of the D.E. crystals either annihilate them on contact or cause fatal dehydration. It requires persistence and patience, but is far better than using toxic pesticides IMO. I also recommend using D.E. around the perimeter of your house to keep out creepy crawlies. Works a treat on ants and roaches.
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We were concerned with bed bugs when we bought our new mattress so we bought a true mattress protector when we bought our new mattress that eliminates the little critters from gettig into the mattress itself. It is paper thin and completely waterproof and seals out the bed bugs. What did we buy? The Platinum mattress Protector by Leggett & Platt This message was modified Nov 30, 2010 by a moderator
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We go to NYC, which is bedbug central, on business occasionally, and just about all our regular hotels have had infestation problems, the cheaper ones (which in NYC means <$200) especially. We always pull the bed partially apart (which we do anyhow, as I travel with an eggcrate topper) and inspect the mattress seams, which is where the bedbugs are supposed to hide, carefully. When we get home I wash all the clothes we took, and dry at hot setting in the dryer, Bedding and outerwear just goes straight into the drier -it's the heat of the drier, not the washing, that really kills them. The eggcrate goes into the freezer until the next trip or for at least two weeks. Using a freezer to kill bedbugs in a bit questionablel as many don't get cold enough to do it, at least, not quickly or for sure, but I figure its better than nothing (I've heard of people who travel regularly dedicating a freezer to de-bedbugging!, so they can keep it extra cold). Seems to work. We've had several friends who have become infested on returning from a trip, but we haven't. |
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Hellbed: look into getting one of these: http://www.usbedbugs.com/PackTite-Portable-Heating-Unit_p_6.html After my stepdaughter got bedbugs from a travelling houseguest, we have been proactive and got one of these since my husband does some business travelling. Now, his luggage goes straight into this when he gets home (it would work well for your eggcrate if you can compress it to fit). Also, if we have been in a public place that could be questionable (e.g. theatres, concert halls) our clothes go into this when we get home. We also cook books we get out of the library. If you are Canadian, they won't ship into Canada and you have to get someone to bring it across the border for you. |
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Thanks, I hadn't seen them. Should be cheaper and faster than a freezer, and if it prevents on infestation it has paid its way. Though apparently 120 is at the low end of the range for killing bugs, and many sources say it takes 20-35 hours to be effective. I suspect that an eggcrate of pillow might even take longer, since they have considerable insulating abilities. DianeK wrote: Hellbed: look into getting one of these: http://www.usbedbugs.com/PackTite-Portable-Heating-Unit_p_6.html
After my stepdaughter got bedbugs from a travelling houseguest, we have been proactive and got one of these since my husband does some business travelling. Now, his luggage goes straight into this when he gets home (it would work well for your eggcrate if you can compress it to fit). Also, if we have been in a public place that could be questionable (e.g. theatres, concert halls) our clothes go into this when we get home. We also cook books we get out of the library. If you are Canadian, they won't ship into Canada and you have to get someone to bring it across the border for you. |
| Yes, if you could get your eggcrate in there, it would probably take a long time to cook. As an experiment, I cooked my wool duvet to see how long it would take. It took 5 hours to get to 128F (you have to be diligent and make sure the temperature probe is in the very middle of an item where it takes the longest to get to temperature), whereas by comparison after 30 minutes in a hot dryer, it is over 120F. The value of the Pack-Tite is that it can take bulkier items than the dryer, and cook hard items like shoes, books, you name it. We keep it out in the garage so with my husband's luggage it never comes back into the house until it has been treated. Most things are in there from 4-8 hours but then I cook things for at least one full hour after they have gotten hot enough and I aim for 130F, not 120F. |