|
i recently went into the brick because im tired of the old one im using now. I decided to buy this one http://www1.thebrick.com/brickb2c/jsp/catalog/product.jsp?prod=WINTERFQP&navAction=jump&navCount=5 after picking it out ive been doing research and alot of people dont like spring air so i dont want to spend good money on something that wont be as good as a different brand like sealy or serta. Has anyone baught this particular set up or can tell me anything interesting about the specs? any advice would be appreciated because i can still cancel the order and pick something else out. thanks |
|
Very interesting info on the make-your-own approach, Phoenix! I think my IKEA mattress was the Sultan Fonnes: Ticking: 62% cotton, 38% polyester; Comfort material: Polyester wadding, High-resilience polyurethane foam (cold foam) 2.2 lb/cu.ft., Polyurethane foam 1.5 lb/cu.ft. Protective fabric: Non-woven polypropylene Height : 11 3/4" Weight : 22lb I was fine with it at first but certainly not in heaven. I knew that it would be quite temporary. Looking back, I remember having pain in my outer thighs from time to time. As for the RhythmicNC, I really liked the feel of it. I felt fully supported but also comfortable. I tend to like that luxurious, cushy, hotel-bed feel. My pain is back so I'm definitely not keeping the Spring Air/Obus Forme for too much longer. I like your idea of exchanging it for a Springwall then using the savings to buy a topper, which I can eventually pass along to my daughter when I decide to go the DIY route. Ah, there's hope yet! Thanks!!
|
|
Wow, I'm not surprised that you are having some pain in your hips. The 1.5 lb foam in the Ikea would be about "due" to be breaking down and there is no reserve in a 4.5" mattress to keep the pressure away. The fact that it was "sort of" comfortable for a while was probably because of your lighter weight. If you decide to go in the "exchange" direction ... be prepared to be a little "forceful". They tend to avoid exchanging for a lower cost mattress and many times this may not even be "allowed". I would insist when you talk to them that you made a big mistake and now realize that you need the absolute firmest mattress you can buy with the least amount of polyfoam and that nothing else will do. Exaggerate as much as you need to since they will be doing the same thing. In terms of which one, I would lay on both the Serta and on the Springwall for long enough (especially on your side) to see how they feel to you. Bear in mind that they will both likely feel firm and you would be adding a topper but it's likely that the Serta may "conform" a little better than the Springwall given the different types of springs. Of course the foam over them will somewhat mask this as well but it should be noticeable. If you were to get a 2" soft latex topper and put it over the serta ... I am guessing it will be much closer to the feel of the Rhythmic than putting it over the Springwall which will likely have less "give". You could also go with a 3" topper but then with the foam in both mattresses you are getting into a pretty thick comfort layer for your weight and proportions (the topper over the comfort layer that is already there). In any case first steps first, if you go in this direction, just put on your "armour", strap on your sword, and be ready to do battle. Phoenix |
|
I visited a "I Hate the Brick" site online and learned a bit about their mattress exchange policy. They'll let you make an exchange for a cheaper mattress but the difference goes toward store credit. What's more, you're charged the original retail price for the new mattress even if it's currently on sale. So there goes the excellent idea of using the money saved on a quality topper! I may just keep the damn Spring Air Obus Forme and try to get a year or so out of it, then toss (I'm doing special exercises, which have relieved the pain for now). I'll also try out the overpriced Tempur-Pedic latex bed and consider that option. Then again, maybe I'll get the Serta/Springwall, a new topper and see if there's anything I can use from the Brick. Decisions, decisions. Thanks for all your help, Phoenix!
|
|
Yup, that sounds pretty typical for the brick ... and a lot of other places. If you really fight with them they may occasionally make exceptions but it's not "easy". You have to go "up the line". If you got full credit for your mattress the Rhythmic would cost you 2600 - 895 = $1705. You could probably buy a better mattress than that for less even if you threw away the obus. They always have you coming and going which is the "plan" all along. Once you buy anything from places like this they have you by the ba***. If you can "fight" to get your best value with a serta/springwall exchange with added toppers (I wouldn't hesitate to "mention" they are the specific subject of a very active forum lol), it would probably be your best value way to go ... even though it's far from optimal. Phoenix PS: they do have some nice pillows from Natura that may be worth using some credit on. This message was modified Dec 19, 2010 by Phoenix
|
| Before reading your response, Phoenix, I was just thinking that buying the Tempur-Pedic latex mattress would amount to digging myself in deeper. If I didn't end up liking it, boy would I be mad at the Brick and, even more so, at myself for compounding the problem and wasting even more money. The Serta/Springwall plus topper is definitely the best value, as you point out. I will check out both mattresses and explore toppers. I'm also seriously thinking of cutting my losses and living with the Spring Air for now (or even trying to sell it on Craigslist for $100--if people even buy used mattresses--ick). It's not causing me pain (though worrier that I am, I wonder if I'm breathing in toxic chemicals all night!). That way, I can look forward to getting an optimal mattress, this time after careful consideration. I'm kind of obsessive about the whole sleep thing--I keep the room cool and in total darkness, ear plugs on and an air purifier humming away, etc-- so I really want to do it right this time. |
|
This is probably the actual layering of the obusforme 1 ½”OBUS Firm EcoFoam & an Antimicrobial Silk/Wool Blend. 1” ObusForme® Talalay Latex. 3 ½” OBUS Firm EcoFoam. 1” Deluxe OBUS High Density Fibre Pad. ObusForme® Zoned Individually Encased Coil System. Foam Encased Edge.(foam around the spring for edge support) 9” High Profile ObusForme® EcoBase. You are lighter in weight so 2.5" in the comfort layers could be fairly close to what you need and the firm ecofoam may work well for support underneath (although this would insulate or dominate the springs underneath it). It doesn't give the actual ILD of either the top layer or the Talalay underneath it (very typical) so how it feels would be the best indicator as to it's suitability for you. The "problem" with this mattress is not so much that it couldn't work well for you but more in it's value and durability compared to other mattresses and materials and in it's use of polyfoam in the comfort layers ... although there are other worse "culprits" here. This mattress should last you for longer than a year ... especially give your weight ... and you would likely be looking at several "good" years from it. There is really only 1.5" of poly to worry about (the 3.5" is deeper and not quite as likely to form impressions or degrade as quickly). How long this will last depends entirely on how they made it and it's "specs" ... which of course they don't reveal. There is no memory foam in this which would be my personal biggest concern with outgassing and while polyfoam is made from some pretty toxic chemicals, it is not as "bad" for outgassing as memory foam. There is still the possibility of breathing in the "dust" that comes from poly degrading (this is different from outgassing) but how much of an issue this may be could easily be disputed. You would be "somewhat" protected from this with the ticking. So in terms of "toxicity" there are probably worse things you could be exposed to in the course of life although there are certainly better as well. So given that you are somewhat "locked in" and depending on how you feel about both losing several hundred dollars in an exchange, and sleeping on "less than organic" materials for a few years, it may be worthwhile to consider keeping it. If you are OK with the mattress as it is currenly performing, then perhaps the information you are gathering here could come in very handy whenever you do replace it with something "better". I read your comment that the first night was great and then after not so good. How are things with it now? Phoenix PS: I just realized that your mattress was the plush version so I'm adding a few comments that are about the plush. I'll leave the above up as it may be helpful for someone considering the firm version. This is probably the actual layering of the plush obusforme although the convolute and the latex may be reversed. 1 ½”OBUS Firm EcoFoam & an Antimicrobial Silk/Wool Blend. 1 ½” ObusForme® Pin Convolute. 1” ObusForme® Talalay Latex. 2 ¾” OBUS Firm EcoFoam. 1” Deluxe OBUS High Density Fibre Pad. ObusForme® Zoned Individually Encased Coil System. Foam Encased Edge.(foam around the spring for edge support) This one is a little more "problematic" as there is more foam of the "softer cheaper kind" to break down. It has 4" of comfort layering of which 3" is poly which is a little thick for most people unless they are on the heavier side and have pressure issues. This certainly would feel softer but with the softer thicker poly there is more of the "soft poly" in the comfort layers to break down and the thickness of the comfort layers could present an alignment problem for some people depending on sleeping position, weight, etc. This could be aggravated more quickly as the softer foam breaks down. It would also depend on the zoning a little more with this model as the coils are not quite as "dominated" as in the firm model (although there is still a lot of foam over them) This message was modified Dec 21, 2010 by Phoenix
|
|
My first night on the Spring Air was heavenly compared to my old Ikea foam mattress. Plus I woke up in the morning without pain for the first time in months and practically cried out: "Hallelujah for I am healed!" The next night was great as well. Then, I think it was the third morning when I woke up feeling the same old pain, which now comes and goes. Over all, the mattress is pretty comfortable and the pain has improved. I currently have the new mattress on an Ikea bed frame sans box spring. The frame is not what the Brick salesman described as "standard," i.e., there's no middle support connecting the frame to the ground. This would make my Spring Air warranty null and void were I to complain about sagging one day, which I won't because I plan on tossing the thing and going green. There is a metal support thingy under the slats extending from the head of the frame to the foot. Should I get a new standard frame or else fortify the existing one to prevent sagging in the middle of the mattress? Thanks once again for your advice, Phoenix!
|
|
I have only seen the ikea bedframes via the catalog so I'm not sure what their tendency to sag in the middle may be with a queen. It may also be helpful if you could describe the pain you experience. Is it from pressure (sounds like it could be from description) or from alignment (usually lumbar but could also strain hips, upper back or other areas). If it is from misalignment, then having a very firm and flat base could make a big difference. How firm does it seem to you? I am guessing it is fine. Typically the bedframes that need "floor support" in the middle are the metal ones that go around the edge of a boxspring like this or this. Neither of these are a slatted base like you have and wouldn't be suitable to put directly under a mattress. Perhaps this is what the salesman thought you meant. Slatted bed bases with a midbeam are usually fine. The obus base looks to me like it is a foundation rather than a boxspring which would be very similar to your bedframe. Phoenix Just realized too that you bought the "plush" version which has more of the "soft poly" in it in the comfort layers which may feel softer but could present an alignment problem either now or as the foam degrades. I've added the stats and added a few comments in the previous post. This message was modified Dec 21, 2010 by Phoenix
|
|
Thanks for the info on bed frames, Phoenix. And thanks as well for updating your post on the mattress layering for the plush model. When I had to choose between the firm and plush models, I went for the latter as a reaction to spending a couple years on a 4.5" foam mattress. My thinking was, my outer thighs and hips hurt because there's no cushioning on my old mattress, so I better buy something with a REALLY THICK pillow top. Also, I assumed that extra comfort layers were appropriate for thin types like me (the foam would cushion the bony parts). Yet another example of how some research before purchasing would have helped! I'm assuming that my problems are due to pressure points. Now I have a dumb question for you: how do you know if you are properly aligned? Is it just a feeling or is there a way to check? |
|
You can go by feel or you can have someone look at you as you are laying down in each of your sleeping positions. On your side, your spine should be straight (they can use a yardstick for reference) and on your back (and stomach) it should have the same natural "S" curve as your spine does when you are standing up straight with good posture. It may help to stand up straight and have them look at the natural curve of your spine and then see how close you are laying on your back on the mattress. They should also check that there are no gaps under the recessed parts of your body (shoud be difficult to slide your hand under) in each position you sleep in A proper pillow to keep your head and neck in a proper position is also an important part of alignment Here is a rough example of good and poor alignment on a mattress Phoenix This message was modified Dec 22, 2010 by Phoenix
|