I know I could do a search. I know I've done so before. Right now I am just soooo not in the mood to go back and look for and read latex info. I want to buy 1" or 2" of Dunlop latex (because I've slept on Talalay and never Dunlop; want to try the Dunlop). Can someone remind me who has it cheapest? I know I investigated this 4-5 months ago but I have completely forgotten. I took all memory foam out of my mattress last night and slept better than I have in weeks. Still woke up with a sore back, but much better. The only other time I tried it without the memory foam was when I used 2 x 1" of my soft latex and I think that was too much soft foam for me. Now I'm back to 1" of soft latex without the memory foam and it's better, but I do guess that my HR foam has crapped out, so time to replace it with latex. What ILD do you recommend for my bottom layer(s) over my springs? When my bed was working for me, I only had 1" of HR foam over the springs so I am guessing that should do it with the latex as well. I think the ILD I used was about 32, so with Dunlop I might want to go with 28? or would that be too soft? (as I recall, Dunlop is naturally firmer than Talalay so you use a lower ILD, no?) Also, I'm not sure - maybe I can find this in my receipt somewhere - the HR foam might have been as high as 36ILD. I had 3 ILD's one firm, one medium and one very firm, and I used the medium sometimes and the firm sometimes, but don't recall the exact ILD's. This message was modified Jan 10, 2010 by jimsocal
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Your description is generally true but not always true. I can think of a couple exceptions to the rule for sure. Thing is, there are many variables with latex much more so than Dunlop or Talalay process. Especially since the words Talalay or Dunlop does not specify which material the latex is even made of. A list of the main variables in latex quality (not density): 1. What the latex is made of. If the latex is all natural or even a partial blend the following will also play a role: 1. How much vulcanization and stabilization chemicals are used: 2. How long the rubber is stored before being processed into a foam core. 3. Where the latex is grown (is it sourced from North Africa, or SE Asia, in particular your best latex comes from malaysia, but the rest of the good stuff from SE Asia) 4. What specific subspecies of tree the rubber is sourced from. 5. and finally the process will obviously matter, below I will explain why I list it so low on the hierarchy. There are basically two substances that are considered latex. Any plant milk which can be vulcanized into rubber, primarily the rubber tree would be the plant in question 99% of the time and 100% of the time with regards for latex in mattress use. There is of course also synthetic rubber, made from petrochemicals it is called styrene butadiene. You can make Dunlop or Talalay process rubber out of either 100% natural sourced latex or 100% petrochemicals. With the same ILD rating, the performance of 100% synthetic vs 100% natural dunlop latex would be dramatically different. You can also of course (and most commonly in North America) make latex using a blend of natural and synthetic rubber, typically 30% natural is the standard blend that latex international uses now-a-days and is the type of mixture you will see used in just about every mainstream companies beds. They of course talk about the virtues of Talalay latex very commonly, which is the process they use for blended rubber. Interestingly enough even though you can make dunlop or talalay latex in any mixture of synthetic and natural rubber you can dream of you never see certain things too often. primarily, you will almost NEVER see or find a manufacturer that uses Dunlop process for blended latex (synthetic and natural). Most dunlop latex on the market will either be 100% synthetic (some cheaper Ikea mattresses) or 100% natural rubber (if you look at high end organic mattresses that use latex cores, usually dunlop is used all the way through or atleast the core). Talalay process you will usually see made in synthetic blends, although sometimes 100% synthetic (like the stuff Sealy makes for themselves) or 100% naturally sourced Talalay, although more rare, latex international makes some like this but its not very common because it is not typically as pure of an end product as 100% natural dunlop rubber so you don't see too much of this being used in a lot of the most expensive beds around. Realistically most Dunlop latex is 100% natural and most talalay latex available is a blend, this is the main reason why you would typically be right in assuming dunlop will be denser and usually is. Natural rubber is much heavier than styrene butadiene. Of course don't take my last sentence to describe what dunlop or talalay IS, always make sure you know what the breakdown of materials is. Chances are if you laid on a piece of dunlop latex that felt really dead it was either 100% synthetic or just an incredibly high ILD natural content. Anyway I am gonna tell you WHY Talalay is primarily used. natural and synthetic latex have inherently different densities, when you mix the two of them together they cannot mix evenly, not to mention that vulcanizing agents will also have different densities. Since most talalay latex here is made by latex international I will use them as an example. Especially since the product is made in the US, but the rubber comes from North Africa. When a rubber tree is damaged in the wild the milk of the tree would come to the surface area and form a giant rubber knot to fight off infection, this rubber will normally solidify within a matter of hours with exposure to air. To prevent this from happening ammonia is added to the natural latex to prevent it from curing. I personally am not privy to the exact details on how long the rubber sits around before being processed but since they send it by boat I think I am right to assume atleast a couple of weeks would go by if not longer. Because the latex sits around for this long the appropriate amount of ammonia must be added, the more ammonia added the more vulcanization agents will need to be added to cure the end product. So as time goes on you will always have a slightly less pure end product. Once you have all these ingredients in a blend it is basically out of complete necessity that they must use the talalay process or there would be huge inconsistencies in the product. On the flip side if one was using 100% synthetic or natural latex there really isn't much of a mixture at all in the first place and therefore no real need to even use the talalay process. especially if the latex is processed close to the plantations as it will not be sitting around as long and very little extra chemicals will have to be added. This is one of my biggest gripes with the industry constantly telling people Talalay is more consistent, obviously it is more consistent blend when you are using a blended latex, however it is actually the blending of latex in the first place from which almost all the inconsistencies are born from. As far as what is bouncier, natural rubber is more elastic than synthetic rubber. This is exactly why condoms and medical gloves still use natural latex because for safety reasons these things need to be able to stretch without breaking, synthetic rubber is far more brittle and actually more prone to cells being destroyed from compression and stretching due to a lack of elasticity. This is also why density doesn't always mean a product is 'better' but the extra weight of natural latex is from proteins which make it more elastic, which is typically very desirable. And would also mean the cores can conform more articulately with the shape of the human body. I could actually go into much greater detail but I am afraid I have a short story here no one will read anyway lol. in closing though, you can compare Talalay to Dunlop in terms of ILD ratings quite fairly, however try to make sure you are comparing the same source material. It wouldn't be fair to compare a synthetic blend talalay to an all natural dunlop, I would say this also works vice versa but as I mentioned no sane manufacturer would make a blended dunlop. This message was modified Jan 11, 2010 by budgy
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I'll have to re-read it a couple times to fully absorb it all. I think I have a couple questions but I'll wait to make sure I'm understanding it correctly. It's late and I am too tired to write (and really, too tired to read well, too)! |
Wow, thanks for the education on latex.
THANKS BUDGY! Great write up. Really appreciate your experience & info. so you mentioned dramatically different performance between natural & synthetic latex- is that just initially, in terms of natural's greater bounce, or long term performance too (i.e. durability)? If more "critical" latex items are made from natural because of its greater elasticity & durability, that would suggest to me a block of natural foam would survive more compressions before you start noticing a difference in response, vs. synthetic. Given equal ild's & vulcanization techniques etc. the synthetic & blended would start breaking down before all natural? what has been your experience from your customer f.b & returns etc. in that regard? and b.tw. when eagle said "Density is measured by taking a reading at 65% of the material being tested, and dividing that by the 25% reading", i think he meant to say that's how "support factor" is measured . Density is obviously just mass/volume. J.S.C. it's probably your back and your bed- i know I used to be able to sleep on anything, but now if it's too soft and my hips sink in even slightly too much, i wake up in pain. in building your all-latex setup, have you considered starting with the very firmest layer for the bottom & building up from there? even if it's likely too firm, then you haven't lost anything except the possibility that that you didn't start with firm enough (& cash if redundant too firm/too deep layers obviously). but just incrementally add softer layers as needed one at a time, instead of installing a setup all at once, then testing it, then trying to figure out which layer is causing problems down the line. That way you could end up with the most firm setup you can "tolerate" (i.e. just soft enough so that you're not getting any numb or tingling pressure points in the morning), keeping as far removed as possible from too-soft that causes lower back pain. Because erring on the side of too soft, if you end up with any layer at any depth that's dipping too much under you, there's no fixing it at the top until the offending layer is removed (as you & i both have painfully discovered with memory foam). I also agree with the suggestion to try changes outside of your foam layers. For example foundation, frame, mattress encasement & pads etc. I noticed a big difference in experimenting with plain wood slats, to a box foundation (literally a hollow wooden box), to a "box spring" (grid of rigid steel arches set in a wood base), to a real boxed springs (with actual coil springs) that i could almost sleep on directly with a comforter. anyway the very same foam setups (except on the hollow box) went from a flatter less lively feel to progressively more springy in the above order, where if I was still bottoming-out on the slats (when sitting, or on an elbow etc.) I couldn't even notice it on the box springs. Then the actual coil-spring box springs were a little too springy, but they were old too (& i don't subscribe to the "springs last forever" theory). too much give under the hips, so just consider there could be a culprit at any point in your setup. even going from a cheap metal frame to wood frame using the same foundation made for a more solid feel. Then with these thick quilted zipper casings- although they look & feel nice to the touch, and obviously protect your foams (in more ways than one unfortunately), my case was obscuring some of what i found i like most about latex. Unlike m.f. for instance (which especially when heated is more like a liquid merely assuming the shape of its container than providing any kind of real support), very firm latex anyway doesn't conform to contours as dramatically as m.f.- but does so just enough to support my difference in shape above it- unless it's bound by this stout casing. When i took that case off & put on a super thin stretch cover (no more substantial than an extra sheet actually), it completely changed the feel. The latex "bubble" that's forced up between my hips & shoulders pressing down, i could completely feel that filling up the arch of my back vs. minimally so when cased. If i had kept that case on, i would have kept trying to find softer & softer toppers to get a more dramatic contouring effect (what i was doing w/ my failed m.f. attempt). potentially too soft, & not enough support. only problem is that I am now suspicious of how it's going to wear in the long run, without the case keeping it bound more than anything. With that case restricting it, it doesn't flex as much, doesn't change shape as much, gets beat up less, and i have a feeling it's not going to last nearly as long getting more freely smashed without the thick case. BUt we'll see, it's still early for me to make any conclusions about anything outside of m.f. Maybe not even that if i got thicker, or thinner, or more or less dense etc. too many variables. |
In terms of performance natural latex 'outperforms' on many different levels. In terms of durability yes, because natural rubber is far more elastic than synthetic or your typical synthetic blend the cells are more resilient...so much so that actually a very low ILD natural latex in Talalay or dunlop will be a far more resilient piece of rubber than even a pretty high ILD piece of 100% synthetic rubber. I have pieces of latex on my showroom that are aged about 3 years, all of which have seen a fair number of peoples hands touching them and compressing them (oil from our skin can damage latex over time) as well as seeing its fair share of UV radiation, the natural stuff still feels completely pliable and virtually unchanged, the synthetic blend has become a little bit more brittle and dry, the 100% synthetic sample I have from Sealy (which ironically is the one I usually keep out of plain sight and in a sheltered dark corner of the showroom because I only want to show it to specific people due to it looking like an eye-sore) is completely cracked along the surface in many different directions and feels like it has lost a lot of its support. There is another myth about latex in our industry that synthetic blends are used because apparently 100% natural rubber isn't very durable without it, or it will begin to bio-degrade. It's not going to bio-degrade in even 50 years of useage, (not saying to keep it that long) but realistically this is not a factor in the life span of a mattress core, it is how the cells respond to the physical abuse we put them through that matters. There is of course the whole conformance to body shape that is oh-so crucial in getting a mattress to perform properly in terms of ergonomics which elastic materials tend to help with so much. As I mentioned earlier when a rubber tree is damaged in the wild the milk comes to the surface and forms a large rubber knot, this is done to prevent infections and disease to the tree. It is the actual proteins in natural rubber that make it resistant to various types of micro organisms living in it. Calling synthetic or even blended rubber hypo-allergenic is somewhat misleading. Natural rubber will literally stay cleaner on a microscopic level as well. There is no real legal definition of hypo-allergenic. Some companies are just a little more upfront about their defintion than others. There is one company I deal with that makes very high quality down filled pillows and duvets, they guarantee they are hypoallergenic......for 90 days, because they have no control over the conditions of the home they will end up in. I just know for myself if I intend on keeping a matress for 20 or more years that I want something that has proven allergen resistance. |
Budgy, you are a font of information and I appreciate all the input you have given about latex! I will also have to re-read it about 63 more times to totally absorb it, but will copy it over to a file so I can refer back to it in the future. I know latex is an extremely long lasting foam, and now I understand why. I have not used it in my bed layering due to two reasons. One, I had a latex bed once, mattress that was supposed to be 100% latex throughout(before I knew anything about ilds and such). On the sales floor, it was dreamy. At home, I didn't sleep all that well on it. I sweated, my hubby sweated a LOT, it never gave me that aaaaahhhh feeling when I went to bed. Then it developed a butt-dent, so I gave it away. It was super duper heavy to move, but it was a CA king. Later on, I bought a latex topper from a natural latex company but it was too boingy to sleep on for me...every time I turned around, I bounced and woke myself up! Also seemed to sleep hot, under the thick mattress pad and sheet. Wish that there was a foam that was long lasting and not so bouncy and sweaty as latex. What is your company name? There are some Canadian posters on here that might like to know where you are. Kait |
I think unless I am PM'ed I would prefer to keep my company name somewhat confidential, only because I think it would be unfair to promote ourselves on a public forum with out paying for it. I wonder what kind of mattress pad you were using, because latex itself is pretty breathable, however its not designed to wick away moisture. It is of my belief that the top most layer in pretty much every bed should be natural materials, cotton or wool filled pads or quilted layers in the mattress usually alleviate any concerns with heat. We also carry Tempur-Pedic which is notorious for sleeping hot, we are actually at the point where we typically recommend from day one people use a wool filled pad instead of a water proof one on them, as so far any customers that have complained about heat we have been able to solve it for them by giving them a wool filled pad after the fact. When you look at most of the true premium latex beds on the market they all have one thing in common, wool quilting layers and cotton covers. The other thing is that most mattress manufacturers now-a-days build latex mattress in atleast some limited capacity, most of these non specialty brands tend to upholster polyurethane foam into the top quilted layers of the beds making them sleep a little bit hottter and of course making them more prone to develop body indentations. But yeah latex is definitely not for everyone, and the very 'best' quality rubber in reality is also the bounciest lol. For most people this isn't a big issue but I could definitely understand not liking that kind of bounce in a pillow. But I do hear you on the bounciness of rubber, some people do not like it. We are exploring new options to give people alternatives, some hand made pocket coil mattresses with basically just a small amount of rubber on top or perhaps no foam at all, I am sure a Hastens bed would last a long time but they are a little pricey. |
Thanks for all the great info. Budgy! Do you know if there is any heat buildup difference between 100% natural dunlop and blended talalay? I have heard some people say that dunlop retains heat even more (possibly due to the higher density?). I am one of the rare people that finds latex too hot at times, even with the wool filled flobed cover and a wool filled natura mattress pad. I don't seem to get overly hot on a firm innerspring. This message was modified Jan 12, 2010 by sandman
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Hi Budgy, Thanks for the info...it's very informative. I have been posting on the "Just bought a new Flobeds" thread and so I am finding your info helpful. Thanks for reconfirming that I am not imagining that my all natural Talalay is bouncier. I made some changes and it's doing better but I am wondering if this "bouncier" effect is part of the reason that the hip area is giving way more than the rest? (Or is it just a sign that I enjoyed the holiday eating too much as my friend suggested this am?! LOL. ) Seriously, since I am 5'7" and about 135 lbs (and female)...I wouldn't think that there is an extra weight issue so I am wondering what your thoughts are. Also, I apologize if I am repeating something already said somewhere but it has been a lot of information to take in but I didn't realize there was an all natural Dunlop? My impression was that the Dunlop was used more in the manufacturing process (big bed makers) as it was cheaper. I assume it's still firmer than the all natural Talalay but are saying that you feel the Talalay is still superior? Finally, what's PM'd? Curious if you will cough up your whereabouts somehow...we have a second home in Alberta that I am now convinced I am going to buy latex beds for when I get a chance. I suspect I know where you are however.... Thanks! TJ12
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As far as heat retention differences I would imagine it to be nominal. Most people sleep warmer on a mattress that conforms to body shape simply because there is more contact with the mattress as opposed to a firmer innerspring. Wool will of course also keep you warm, just tends to be more bearable in the extremes because it at least keeps you dry. If your mattress already has wool quilted into it, then you would probably find a cotton or silk mattress pad would be even cooler than wool. Most truly natural latex foam is in reality dunlop. the cost difference in terms of what process is used is incredibly small. natural latex is however much more expensive, and in the case that most dunlop is denser that just means there is more latex. it takes approximately a full 8 hour day for a rubber tapper to collect enough rubber to make a queen mattress (6 inches thick), the talalay process may be slightly more expensive, but the extra rubber typically found in a natural dunlop core is far more expensive to collect. The worlds most expensive all latex bed uses all natural dunlop. I definitely wouldn't call talalay superior as a blanket statement, however when dealing with blended latex (synthetic and natural) yes talalay is a better process to use. Something tells me you might indeed have an idea of where we are lol. PM (Private Message) me if you wanna confirm your suspicions lol. |
Latexco, a Belgian company, that has two locations in the United States, one in California and one in Georgia, is one of the world's largest manufacturers of latex. It looks to me like they tend to emphasize Dunlop. But they definitely make quite a bit of blended Dunlop according to their website. I am going to give you a link to one of their websites and a page that gives some excellent definitions regarding density, ILD (hardness), and resiliency. It makes for some interesting reading. http://www.latexco.com/tested-quality/ This message was modified Jan 12, 2010 by eagle2
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